Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and travelers equally praising its superb cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Recently, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a select group of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this status, it enters a global network of cities metropolises across over 100 countries committed to promoting "creativity as a key factor of city development that is sustainable".
The honor "stands as proof of its deep-rooted food heritage and lively food ecosystem," according to a representative from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this time-honored city comes as no surprise to its residents or avid food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO designation, this adored, chaotic, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is at last in the limelight for what has perennially shaped its essence: an immense love for food.
"'The day's menu, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing dialogue from morning until night in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and elevated to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of culinary innovations, fusing Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was devised to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs ground the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just highlights seasonal produce but also gives the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on many street corners, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – lesser-known gems that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, served in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can make their way to a unpretentious joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also boasts special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and complicated. The cook hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however express concern that their younger generation are unwilling to learn the craft.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's rich food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is believed, will motivate more people globally to explore these tales and travel to the city to delight in the food wonders of Lucknow.
